At dinner in the formal dining room, all decked out in a gown and eating crablegs topped with julienne vegetables, I notice that the sores in my mouth and throat are not getting better, and in fact feel worse. It is getting difficult to swallow.

In Juneau, we are blessed by the appearance of humpback whales approaching our small whale-watching boat, arching, diving, showing off their magnificent flukes.

When I shower at night, I feel my neck muscle bulging slightly, the hardening creeping up my neck.